With the writer cloud shaanxi | eat not tired of haggis, break off enough hollow cake

2022-05-20 0 By

On the occasion of the Spring Festival, shaanxi Writers Association and Media Center, shaanxi Radio and TELEVISION public channel jointly launched the “Spring Festival Culture into thousands of People — With writers in Shaanxi”.This year, let’s take a different tack and give the ears a taste.In recent years, the literary Shaanxi Army is very lucky to get the support of many writers and friends, and has many beautiful pieces of writing local customs, local tastes and local feelings, which breed a touch of tenderness and sentimentality in our heart.This year, on the way home, at the time of reunion, in the distance of the watch, let the ears take us to the destination, although passing through many cities, heard thousands of voices.The moment of the sound of the local accent, back to the childhood afternoon……This issue with your cloud to enjoy shaanxi taste, taste a writer Li Guangze and Geng Yongjun under the pen of Wu Bao cakes and Suide chop suide.Li Guangze in Wubao County, northern Shaanxi, entertain guests from other places, generally can not do without hollow cakes.Living in Beijing, Shanghai, Xi ‘an and other big cities of Wu Bao people, every three or five people call home to take a few hollow cakes, to solve the greedy.Wu Bao old street, there is a “local characteristic snack gallery”, is a snack market, most stalls are operating hollow cakes, while playing, while selling.Wu Bao people make cakes, called playing cakes.Playing cake is a skill, not who can play, the market to play cake master, both men and women, are twenty or thirty years of kung fu.Wu Bao hollow cake has “three unique” : empty two fragrant three crisp.The secret of empty is that there is a pinch of dry flour in the cake. In the process of baking, when the cake is heated, it will form a hollow, or even become a fat and hollow man.In order to prevent the cake is too bloated, the master will take a steel needle or wire casually in the side of the cake two times, put some gas, so that the cake can be hollow, and can have a formal shape.The master said, a person can not be too inflated, the same as cakes.The secret is the dried flour of the bread inside, with a little dill and table salt.Fennel has its own aroma, salt is used to enhance the flavor, the chef said, beat cakes like cooking, oil without salt, not sweet to eat.Of course, the brain lively master will come to some innovation, sprinkle some sesame seeds on cake, although much a working procedure, increased a little cost, but a few minutes more sesame seeds without a thin air, that is sweet add sweet, natural more popular.The secret of crispness lies in the base and baking.Wu Bao hollow cake belongs to the flour cake, dough to a bit, how much alkali, to be just right.Alkali small, cake will sour, alkali big, cake will send out a pupal smell.This is in the second, the most critical is that alkali is not good, cake is not crisp, hard, like a stone cake.As to oven, have pay attention to more, must use earth furnace, electric oven is not earthing gas, lack pyrotechnic flavour, bake at all cannot give that fineness.In the middle of the furnace is a fire, fire is around a round clay platform, known as the “ring”, “ring” above sitting a diameter of more than two feet of iron 鏊子, just cover the oven.Play hollow cake must burn orchid charcoal, hard fire head, high temperature, and smokeless.The cake is baked on 鏊子 for a while, and after it changes color, it can be baked in the clay oven “running horse ring”.A group of cake, neatly arranged on the monkey “circle”, turn it over, in the past, roll to the left after a while, a moment to roll to the right, has a group of soldiers in marching to the queue performance, at ease, stand at attention, to the left, right, still have rules, dynamic and orderly, make cake teacher is like a near-certain general, consider practicing it, the soldiers hollow cake also can come.Just out of the oven hollow cake is the most delicious hollow cake, brown brown, steaming, a bite, crispy outside, inside cotton incense, really can sweet brain collapse.Every morning, WHEN I set out from my apartment to work, I passed those hollow cake stalls.Far away, you can hear the strong rhythm of the “Symphony of Hitting cakes” — first “la”, “la” two, followed by a “pop”.Hit cake master, each person has two pear wood small rolling pin, one is conventional, one is processed into flower ribs special small rolling pin.Master first with conventional small rolling pin on the cutting board “get” “get” two empty hit, and then roll the cake, then “pop” sound, put the rolled cake on the cutting board, and then use “flower edge edge” gently slip on the cake, slip sideways, slip vertically, the cake has a pattern, a texture, like a work of art.I asked the master, why to use a small rolling pin two empty chopping board, the master laughed and said, to play a “formula”, make some sound to attract customers.Wu Bao hollow cake has two nicknames, a “flash flat mouth”, a “two regret”.The cake looks bloated and huge, but in fact it is an empty shell filled with air. When the diners bite hard, they often bang their upper teeth against their lower teeth, making exaggerated cries and collapsing their mouths.Besides, the cake looked thick and big. It was a good thing to eat.Wait until eat, find it is empty, but also regret.With the gradual improvement of everyone’s living standards, hollow cakes have a “luxury” eating method, that is wu Bao people hanging in the mouth of the hollow cakes clip pig’s head meat, similar to guanzhong meat clip mo.This “luxury” eating method, of course, is more exciting than ordinary eating method, not dry cake, meat is not greasy, but also satiated, eat a meal can tube for three days.I have used hollow cake to entertain a lot of foreign guests to Wu Bao.A guest said jokingly, Wu Bao people are not conscience, why cakes are hollow.I told the guests, Wu Bao hollow cake represents an open mind, is the meaning of the valley.Words did not fall, the table of hollow cake was robbed and light.The guest eat cake while, while beating me, say propaganda minister when long, as expected when an occupational disease!Although I am not a native of Wu Bao, wu Bao hollow cake left a deep impression on me long ago.When I was in junior high school, I often used my spare time, riding a bicycle to the city of Wu Bao county ten kilometers away from the school to sell cakes, buy ten, the boss to send a, go back to the ten cakes to the students to sell, you can earn to eat one.I always feel that after graduation from junior high school can be admitted to a small technical secondary school, Wu Bao hollow cake is indispensable.Since work to Wu Bao, holidays occasionally in the unit on duty, encounter meal, I will buy two hollow cakes, a piece of a piece of broken, while breaking, while eating, leisurely eliminate two cakes, and then bubble a pot of black tea, also calculate a rich emotional taste of the simple meal.Think about it, black tea cake, is how good creative, how rare food experience!For the people of Wubao, a hollow cake, with a bowl of millet porridge and a dish of water radish, is the taste of home, is the taste of childhood.I know, a lot of them, they don’t like delicacies, just like this one!A suide man’s day starts with a bowl of haggis.In the morning, the sun rose and the earth was bright.A small town of haggis shops opened, dressed in the morning glow of diners poured in, just out of the pot of haggis fragrance wafted out.A bowl of haggis aroma lingering, a hot oil coking yellow tempting.The oil is cut open with a knife, and the delicious pork head is put in. Suide people call it “lion’s big mouth”.Such a meal of haggis set to eat down, with a northern Shaanxi saying, “can bureau strength”, immediately sweat on the head, smile on the face, full of strength, spirit spirit is enough, god Lao Tzu is not afraid.I think the mountains are beautiful, the water is beautiful, the people are beautiful, and the days are better.About haggis, there is a legend: it is said that during the Yuan Dynasty, Genghis Khan was besieged by the enemy in Yulin, Shaanxi province on his way to the Western Xia dynasty.All helpless, logistics personnel to slaughter the original sheep head hoof, liver and lung from the gully picked up, washed and chopped, braised in a large pot.No seasoning, a fire brigade picked a handful of wild coriander washed and chopped into the pot, we eat said the taste delicious, than roast lamb delicious.Haggis, a traditional local food, has a long reputation, all over the northwest production, unique taste, colorful, northern Shaanxi from Yan ‘an to Yulin is popular.Only Suide chop suide and oil xuan unique, leading the coquetty, enduring.Together with local mutton noodles, bowl tuo, black flour, mixed flour leaves, sizhuo, black leng leng, potato tsha-tsha, tanhuang, oil cake, sesame soup rice, meat dingding dull rice, millet money money rice, yellow rice momos, pork qiao plate powder, etc., form a strong array of the world famous state food products series.Haggis has been at the forefront of the series for years.You listen to xintianyou how to sing: “a big bowl of sweetbreads, yellow oil swirling thousands of layers, wake up in the middle of the night also want to eat, can not wait for the dawn of the stars.”Why do suide people love haggis?This should start from its regional characteristics.Food is inextricably and deeply connected with a land and water.Suide is located in the transition zone from loess Plateau to Inner Mongolia steppe.Growing grains to satisfy food and clothing, grazing cattle and sheep to increase economic income.Here is also rich in potato vermicelli, haggis required by the goat water, vermicelli, vegetables and other ingredients are local materials, to miscellaneous selection excellent, real material, green natural, continuous.In this way, a simple bowl of haggis embodies the essence of grassland culture and loess culture, exuding the taste of loess plateau, prairie, Wuding River and mother.Suide people’s love for haggis is children’s attachment to their mothers, flowers and trees to the earth’s attachment.It is not so much a dietary habit as a traditional culture that has been deposited into the bones of generations.Suide chop suide has strict standards for materials, production and food matching, with a unique local flavor.The raw material of chop suey is the entrails of sheep and the authentic vermicelli of northern Shaanxi and the thick mutton bone soup.Main material is sheep head, sheep tripe, sheep blood, sheep bone soup (commonly known as water) combination.Excipient is vermicelli, celery, coriander and so on.The lamb head is stewed and chopped with cooked lamb tripe, lamb liver and lamb blood, etc., and vermicellas are put into the mutton bone soup with scallions, ginger, minced garlic, red chili oil, monosodium glutamate, celery and coriander to make a pot, commonly known as “goat’s chop”.The red was chili oil, the green was shallots and coriander, and the milky white was lamb bone stock.”Uneaten and thick, inviting appetite;When eaten, the fragrance wafts forth and the aftertaste is endless.”Drink a mouthful of fresh soup to eat a mouthful of chop suey, not full of mutton not greasy, delicious soup, entrance shengjin.Oil now do now bake, crisp inside soft, layers of oil fragrance overflow.Chop suey, pork head with oil, is the best combination of authentic, can be called a unique, cheap and affordable, can be used as breakfast, but also as lunch dinner.Haggis is rich in nutrients, suitable for young and old, and can be eaten in all seasons.Especially when the day is cold and cold, food can drive cold by cold, a bowl of chop suey belly, warm and comfortable.In Suide, the daily life of marriage and funeral, the military, women’s entrance examination, children’s birthday, the elderly birthday, not sheep’s chips shining stage, and hele mutton noodles, eight bowls of oil cake together, every ceremony are rendered magnificent and grand.Wanderer return, a car, first in the station haggis museum 咥 a chop suey package, homesick, tears.The goat’s chop suey also moved in love, enthusiasm, aroma filled the air.Oil xuan is “lion big mouth”, laughing to welcome their loved ones home.In recent years, suide people are not satisfied with the business scope of haggis and other delicious food is only limited to the county seat or northern Shaanxi, they want to advance into the big city, open up a big market, a grand plan.So, from Taiyuan to Ordos, from Yinchuan to Lanzhou, there are traces of Suide goat’s chop suide everywhere.With the improvement of the concept, many people in northern Shaanxi are no longer willing to display their talents on the Loess Plateau, and have gone to Xi ‘an to do business. Many people in northern Shaanxi move to Or soreside in Xi ‘an, which brings business opportunities to catering businesses.In order to satisfy the homesickness on the tongue of people in northern Shaanxi, suide and northern Shaanxi cuisine has entered Xi ‘an city in a large scale.”Suide goat’s Chop suide” restaurant from the northern suburb of Fengcheng all the way to Fengcheng 12 Road, weiyang District, xincheng district to high-tech zone.Strives for the survival by the quality, seeks the development by the good faith, relies on the prestige wins the public praise.Many restaurants are doing brisk business, and some have become “net red card places.”I have dined several times at Suide goat’s Chop suey restaurant in Xi ‘an.The appearance of these restaurants are mostly cave like, white window paper, red window flowers, red lanterns, strong northern Shaanxi customs blow on the face, let a person at the moment.In the store, the white cloth coat of Northern Shaanxi, the waiter is a woman dressed up, the hall echoed with “Thirty Miles shop” and other folk songs, thick northern Shaanxi atmosphere infected diners.There are restaurants in Northern Shaanxi singer live singing, the guests’ dining mood excited.What I did not expect is that many restaurants not only fight alone with haggis and mutton noodles, but also compete with each other in series of delicious food, such as oil cake, yellow rice bun, yellow rice bun, sijia and miscellaneous noodles. There are many varieties and fragrance, forming a grand group fighting momentum.”If you are fragrant, the wind will come.”What I did not expect is that suide snacks not only satisfy the taste buds of people in northern Shaanxi, but also let people in Xi ‘an open their eyes and attract their appetite, and people come to eat in an endless stream.I remember that one year, a professor of an art institute in a foreign province led his students to Suide for sightseeing. When he left, he said, “There are too many shishi to watch and too many Xintianyou to listen to.Not enough haggis, not enough yellow rice wine.”Abstract from: Literature Shanjun, copyright belongs to the author.